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Lights not working? What to check first.

Start with how many lights are out. Then the bulb, the switch and the fuse board, what to do about a bathroom pull cord, and what actually fixed 535 lighting call-outs in our repair data.

GU10 downlight being fitted into a ceiling
The short answer. If one light is out, try a known-good bulb of the right type. If every light is out but the sockets work, check the lighting breaker at the fuse board. If a new bulb doesn’t fix it, the fitting or its connections are the usual cause: in 535 lighting call-outs, a new light fitting was the fix 311 times, and a bulb alone only 43 times.

First, how many lights are out?

Lights run on their own circuits, separate from the sockets. So the pattern of what has gone off tells you where to look.

What you seeMost likely causeWhere to go next
One light out, the rest fineThe bulb, then the fitting, the lampholder or the switchTry a known-good bulb, then read on
New bulb, still nothingThe light fitting or a loose connection in itWhat we found
Every light in one room outThe switch, or a connection at the switch or first lightCheck the board, then call us
All the lights out, sockets workingThe lighting breaker has tripped, or a fuse has blownSafe checks
Lights and sockets out in half the houseAn RCD has tripped and taken several circuits with itNo power in half the house
A breaker or RCD trips again when you reset itA fault on a circuit or a faulty applianceRCD keeps tripping
Light flickers or buzzesBulb, dimmer, or a loose connectionLights flickering
Water dripping from the lightA leak above itSwitch off at the board: water through a light

Safe checks you can do

  1. The bulb. Switch off and let it cool, then fit a bulb you know works, with the same cap (bayonet, screw or GU10). If the light is on a dimmer, it needs a dimmable LED. Philips says “many conventional or budget LED bulbs are not designed to dim”, and that dimming a non-dimmable LED “can cause flickering, buzzing, or even damage to the bulb and switch”. Philips also advises pairing dimmable LEDs with a compatible dimmer. Two of our call-outs ended with dimmable bulbs being fitted.
  2. The switch. If it feels loose, doesn’t click, or a two-way light only works from one end, the switch may have failed. Leave the cover on: we replaced 36 light switches in our data.
  3. The fuse board. Look for a breaker (MCB or RCBO) marked lights or lighting that is down or in the middle. Push it fully off, then on, once. If it stays on, check the lights. If it trips again, leave it off and call us: something on that circuit has a fault. On an older board with fuse carriers, call an electrician rather than repairing the fuse.
  4. Stop there. Don’t take down a fitting or open a switch. If a fitting is hot, scorched, buzzing or smells of burning, switch the lighting circuit off at the board.

Bathroom pull cord not working

Bathroom lights are usually worked by a pull switch in the ceiling. It fails in three ways:

  • The cord has snapped, or the knot inside has slipped, so pulling does nothing. Sometimes a new cord is enough. Often the whole switch is renewed.
  • The mechanism has stuck. No click, or the cord doesn’t spring back. The switch needs replacing.
  • The cord has been pulled out, or the switch has come away from the ceiling. Switch the lighting off at the board and leave it for an electrician.

In our data we renewed 29 ceiling pull switches on lights, 18 of them in bathrooms. On 7 of the 29 visits the light fitting was renewed too. Two shaver lights needed a new cord rather than a new unit. The thicker 45A pull switch for an electric shower is a different switch: see electric shower not working.

What we found on our lighting call-outs

Between July 2025 and June 2026 our engineers attended 535 call-outs about lights inside residents’ homes, at 494 different sites (mostly single flats) across 93 postcode districts, in Anchor sheltered housing for Axis Europe. We counted them from the repair codes on each job sheet:

What fixed itCall-outsShare
New light fitting: 199 square or round fittings, 86 standard 18W LED fittings, 22 shaver lights, 7 sealed bathroom lights and 2 LED fittings with sensors31158%
New pendant, lampholder, ceiling rose or batten holder7213%
Light taken down, connections checked and refitted448%
Bulb only: no other part replaced438%
New light switch367%
New ceiling pull switch (plus 2 new cords on shaver lights)295%
Working when we arrived143%
Connections re-made: loose, snapped or wired the wrong way round102%
Lighting circuit tripped, switched off or fuse blown, and put back on81%
Faulty RCD, RCBO or breaker replaced at the board31%
Lighting on a 32A breaker and the cooker on a 6A or 10A one2<1%

Some call-outs involved more than one item, so the rows overlap and don’t add up to 535. Not included: more than 300 further call-outs for communal and outside lights (corridors, stairwells, car parks, lamp posts), 15 electric shower pull switches, and void EICRs.

Some of the faults behind those numbers: a live wire snapped inside the terminal of a living room light; a pendant that kept burning out bulbs until the pendant itself was replaced; a bathroom fitting with a failed transformer; and, twice, a lighting circuit on a 32A breaker with the cooker on a 6A or 10A one. Once we swapped them round; the other time the whole board was replaced.

What it means for you

If a new bulb doesn’t fix it, the fitting or its connections are the usual cause. Fewer than one in ten of our call-outs needed only a bulb. More than half needed a new fitting, and about one in seven a new pendant, lampholder or ceiling rose. Many of the replacements are LED fittings. If the lights are all out at once, the cause is more likely at the fuse board than in the fittings.

Bathroom lights came up a lot: 158 of the 535 job sheets mention a bathroom. In those bathroom jobs, 138 needed a new fitting and 18 a new pull switch. So if the pull cord clicks normally, suspect the fitting.

Tenants and landlords: who repairs it?

For a home let on a lease of under seven years granted since 24 October 1961, section 11 of the Landlord and Tenant Act 1985 says the landlord must “keep in repair and proper working order the installations in the dwelling-house” for the supply of electricity. That does not cover “other fixtures, fittings and appliances for making use of the supply”, so your own lamps and appliances are yours. In a block, it can also cover installations elsewhere in the building that serve your home, where the landlord owns or controls them.

Private landlords in England must also ensure the electrical safety standards are met while the home is let, have the installation inspected and tested at least every five years, and have any remedial work the report calls for done within 28 days (or sooner if the report says so), under the Electrical Safety Standards in the Private Rented Sector (England) Regulations 2020. Check your tenancy agreement for who replaces bulbs, and report anything else to your landlord in writing. In the homes in our data, the repair requests reached us from Anchor through Axis Europe. See electricians for landlords.

When is lighting work notifiable?

In England, Approved Document P sets out which electrical work must be notified to building control:

JobNotifiable?
Replacing a light fitting, switch, pull switch or ceiling roseNo: “replacements, repairs and maintenance anywhere” are not notifiable
Adding a light to an existing circuit in a living room or bedroomNo
A new lighting circuitYes
Replacing the consumer unitYes
Adding to or altering a circuit in the zone around a bath or shower (to 2.25m high, and 0.6m from the bath or shower tray)Yes

Work that isn’t notifiable must still be designed, installed, inspected and tested to BS 7671. If the job turns into a new circuit or a new board, see consumer unit replacement.

How SEGplc can help

We are an NICEIC Approved Contractor based at SEG House, Chiswell Green. We find lighting faults, replace fittings, switches and pull switches, and fix tripping lighting circuits for homeowners, landlords and housing providers. Most single lights are a small job. For housing providers, see responsive repairs and sheltered housing repairs.

Lights still not working? Send us a photo of the light and your fuse board, or call 01727 238 999. Phones are answered 7am to 10pm, seven days a week. Our one-hour emergency response runs Monday to Friday, 8am to 5pm: see emergency electrician.

Questions about lights not working

Why is my light not working when the bulb is new?

Check the new bulb has the right cap and, if the light is on a dimmer, that it is a dimmable LED. If it still won’t light, the fault is usually the fitting or its connections. In our repair data, a new light fitting was the fix in 311 of 535 lighting call-outs, and only 43 needed nothing more than a bulb.

Why are my lights not working but the sockets are?

Lights and sockets are on separate circuits. If every light is out and the sockets work, the lighting breaker (MCB or RCBO) has probably tripped, or an old-style fuse has blown. Switch the breaker back on once. If it trips again, leave it off and call an electrician.

Why are the lights not working in one room?

Usually a faulty switch or a loose connection at the switch or the first light in that room. If the room has its own breaker, check that too. Don’t open the switch or fitting yourself.

Why has my bathroom pull cord stopped working?

The cord has snapped, the mechanism inside has jammed, or the cord has come out of the switch. A new ceiling pull switch is a small job. We renewed 29 of them in a year of repairs in sheltered flats, most of them in bathrooms.

Why is my shaver light not working?

Try a new lamp first. If that doesn’t work, the pull cord or the unit has usually failed. In our data, 22 shaver lights were replaced complete and two needed a new cord instead.

Do I need a certificate to replace a light fitting?

In England, replacing a light fitting is a replacement or repair, which Approved Document P says is not notifiable. A new circuit is. So is adding to or altering a circuit in the zone around a bath or shower. All work should still be done to BS 7671.

Who pays to fix a light in a rented home?

For most tenancies of under seven years, the Landlord and Tenant Act 1985 makes the landlord keep the electrical installation in repair and proper working order. Check your tenancy agreement for who replaces bulbs, and report anything else to your landlord in writing.

Sources

Written by SEGplc, NICEIC Approved Contractor, SEG House, Chiswell Green, St Albans. Repair figures from our job sheets for Anchor sheltered housing, July 2025 to June 2026. Last updated 27 October 2026. This is general guidance, not legal advice.

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